A change of plans


When I was Santa Marta, I actually planned to book the tour to the Lost City, where you walk 3 days through the jungle to a lost ruin. But at the sight of the people returning, bruised by mosquitoes, I decided against it and booked instead a 3-day tour to the La Guajira desert at the northernmost point of South America. I booked this tour together with the Englishman in Riohacha, a city about 2-3 hours east of Santa Marta. The tour can be booked cheaper there and is also closer to the starting point of the tour.

Normally I don't like tours like this, but this one was worth every penny!


Spending the night in a hammock outside


We were picked up by jeep, because there are no real roads there. In our car were 4 other retired Colombians, 2 of them were very annoying and arrogant (an exception among the Colombians). The young Colombians obviously cannot afford such a tour so easily.

First we stopped at a salt mining place in Manaure and then filled up the jeep again in Uribia, the last town before the desert. There we had cheap gas, smuggled from Venezuela. Afterwards we drove to a beautiful beach with a yellow-dark glowing beach - it is amazing that the desert has come so close to the sea. I had not seen that before.

We stayed overnight in Cabo de Vela, a small cozy fishing village internationally known for kite surfing. For the first time I slept outside in a hammock, I couldn't sleep much, but we had to leave early at 6 am anyway. There was no running water either, I had to be content with a bucket shower.


Hungry local kids


In the La Guajira desert there are still people living. Due to a drought a few months before, some had even passed away. Often the children put a rope over the road and let the vehicle pass only when a few sweets or drinks were given out. Our vehicle was already prepared for this procedure and had some supplies with it to be able to give the children something. Not only the people looked emaciated, also the animals. I observed a dog that was thin as a skeleton.


Insanely beautiful beach


We drove to another beautiful beach, which was even more charming and deserted than the first one. The beauty gave me wings and I literally "flew" over the desert. In the evening we watched the sunset at Punta Gallinas (Chicken Point), the northernmost point of South America. We spent the night in a hammock again, but this time in a much bigger one, where it was much easier to sleep. The fence of the property consisted of cactuses, the desert-like way to make a fence!


Seeing the stars clearly as never before


All others were already sleeping. I, however, still looked at the starry sky in all solitude, which I had never seen so clearly before. One of the most magical moments of my journey. Alone and yet so happy!
I was finally disturbed by a donkey there, who was just about to go to the men's room, a bizarre scene. He had gone over the water jug that was actually meant to be used for flushing away faeces.

The next morning there was a boat trip, where we could watch flamingos. We also saw many cactuses and shells. Super satisfied after a great tour we went all the way back to Riohacha and from there to Santa Marta.


Feb. 15, 2020, 10:26 p.m.