formerly the place of the all-male republic of the Cossacks
Zaporizhzhia is the capital of the state of the same name in the south of Dnipro. It is the sixth largest city in the country with about 760,000 inhabitants. It is an important industrial centre producing steel, aluminium, aircraft engines, automobiles, transformers for substations, and other heavy industry goods.
Tourists flock here to see Khortytsya, a rocky, forested island where the Cossacks founded their all-male republic, which flourished by raiding neighbouring empires and levying duties on anyone who used the river trade route.
came here by accident
I came here by chance. Actually I had been looking for a couchsurfing host in Dnipro, but the search mistakenly listed people from Zaporizhzhia, which is a few hours away. The host had already agreed to host me and I wanted to try couch surfing for the first time in my life anyway, so I went there after all.
In the bus terminal of Dnipro I first had to find my minibus to Zaporizhzhia, but a nice Ukrainian lady helped me to find it. I reached the house of Maria, my couchsurfing host, and then I could see for the first time what a Ukrainian apartment looks like. The walls are decorated with much more ornaments and art than in my country, also the walls are usually not white. I even had my own bed and room and not just a couch in the living room.
Walking on the big river island Khortytsia
I rested for a short time and then she took me around the city first. Later her 2 friends accompanied us and we hiked to Khortytsia Island. We had a peaceful walk in the nice nature of the island which has unique flora and fauna, including oak groves, spruce woods, meadows, and steppe. It is the largest island in the Dnepr river and covers an area of about 24 km². The island has played an important role in the history of Ukraine, specially in the history of the Zaporozhian Cossacks.
a hydrolectric power station
Nearby there is a huge hydroelectric power station, the DniproHES. Everywhere you can see the huge power poles. You can really hear it humming when you stand under them. Maria's friend told me a lot about the history of the power plant. When it was built in 1927 it was the 3rd biggest hydroelectric power station in the world. It was destroyed by the Soviets in September 1941 to block the attack Nazis with the outflowing water! The city's name Zaporizhzhia literally means "beyond the rapids".
In the afternoon we watched the sunset over the huge dam. We wanted to visit a nearby Cossack village which functions now as a museum, but it was just closed. We took a long walk back to the city and finally reached the home of my Couchsurfing host where we made a nice salad for dinner.
Moving to my 2nd couchsurfing host
Maria, my host, had to work in the book correction the next day, so I had to move again. I found a second couchsurfing host in Natalia in the same city. She had already spent time in Germany and now offered me a room in her apartment. The young Ukrainian girl lived there with her mother and 2 cats and welcomed me immediately with love. During the day I had to leave the house because she was at work. I met Natalia for lunch during which she took me to a very cheap student canteen.
In the city I walked to a huge unfinished bridge, the construction of which was stopped years ago. The building materials and vehicles are corroding to this day. Everything was left standing. Natalia showed me pictures where she climbed up the huge pillar without any protection. She apparently has nerves of steel!
She leads a very busy life. After her work she went straight to a hip-hop dancing class, from which I picked her up afterwards. She also helped me to pay for a concert ticket, which I wanted to visit in Kiev the following week. You couldn't book that online, you had to make a cash deposit into a specified account. Afterwards you get a small piece of paper with the data and you get registered on the guest list. I was a little queasy about it, but it really worked.
Running to my train
We talked until midnight and early in the morning shortly before 7 am I had to get up the next day, because my train back to Kiev left a little later. For breakfast Natalia made me a typical Ukrainian breakfast: buckwheat with milk.
I ordered an uber to get to the station. Its arrival was finally delayed so much that I had to cancel it and run to the station for 30 minutes, which was not so easy because one of my trolley wheels had a screw loose. Just in time I managed it!
My 2 first Couchsurfing experiences were great, both of my hosts were very nice. With Couchsurfing you get much more insight in the daily life of the locals or places you wouldn't find as a tourist who stays in hostels or hotels. Even though you may have to sacrifice a bit of comfort, but you also save money and find new local friends. I'm in contact with my 2 hosts until today.
Nearly 8 hours lasted my trip back to Kiev, from where my tour to the nuclear reactor of Chernobyl should start the next day.
